Pulling Out All the Stops

You've probably heard, "pulling out all the stops," before in reference to someone exhausting every last resource they have, but have you ever considered where the phrase originated? It's one of those coloquiallisms that becomes so engrained in a language that it grows into a sort of enigma. It's like a photograph on the wall of your favorite restaurant or the home of a relative; you've seen it so many times that it becomes familiar, but chances are that, to you, the story behind the photograph remains a mystery. None of us had ever considered the story behind, "pulling out all the stops," with the exception of Dr. Tegels. 

    -Organ and interior of the Dom, or Berlin Cathedral-

While one of the main focuses of this J-Term course is organs, none of us students are organists, and we have generally limited music backgrounds (Read: I remember how to play some scales, read music, and crank out some incredibly basic songs as a result of piano lessons and middle school band. End knowledge). As a result, Dr. Tegels and the other organists we meet have to routinely explain things to us that would be absolutely rudimentary to organ students, including what stops are in relation to an organ. 

    -Stop detail and Dr. Tegels playing the organ at St. Jacobi Kirche in Lüdingworth, Germany-

At one of our stops, no pun intended (but a pun that I like all the same), in Lüdingworth, Germany at the St. Jacobi Kirche, Dr. Tegels gave us a quick explanation of what stops are how they affect an organ. Basically, the sound emitted from an organ is the product of a lot of air going through the pipes, but it is the job of the organist to decide which pipes that air is available to. When a stop, which are the myriad knobs extending from the organ (for those of you who are reading this as musically inept as I am), is pulled out, air can travel to a specific set of pipes, allowing for sound to be made and music to be enjoyed. This is the point in Dr. Tegels' explanation in which Emma exclaimed, "...WAIT. Is that where 'pulling out all the stops comes from?!'" And you know what? It most certainly is. 

There has been no shortage of opportunities to learn new things this J-Term, from millitary, church, and art history to even basic things like where coloquiallisms in our language come from and how certain instruments work. I'm still far from being an organ student, and at this point in my life I'll probably never become one, but I have developed an immense appreciation for all things related to organs. Organists, organ builders, and organs themselves all have immense intricacies and nuances, and in the case of the humans included in that list: a great wealth of knowledge and talent. To think that such complex instruments were being constructed by people over 500 years ago, and that sometimes I can't even figure out how to put IKEA furniture together, is amazing and incredibly humbling. 

    -Stevenskerk organ, Nijmegen, Netherlands- 

Small People in Small Places, Halfway Across the World from Home

Between the rows of picturesque old homes and cobbled streets, something ominous looms in Germany: the past. As you can imagine, when visiting Germany one cannot escape the devastation that engulfed the country during the Cold War, and the entire world in the wake of the Second World War. However, as the country in which Adolph Hitler built his Nazi regime, Germany has a unique relationship with the holocaust and offers a perspective on the subject that I've never encountered before. It is one of both critical reflection and rememberance, despair and hope, and an exceptional desire to spread knowledge, in the hope that something so horrendous may never happen again. 

    - Homes in Lüneburg, Germany- 

However, one of the more chilling aspects of our time spent here visiting various museums and churches, is that there are certain parallels between our present and the past that I sometimes found hard to take in. While spending a day in Berlin, we had the opportunity to visit the Topography of Terror: a museum now located where the SS and Gestapo headquarters once stood. One of the main goals of the museum is to explicate how exactly a nation could willingly elect someone like Hitler into power. The answer? In the shortest terms possible: rhetoric and propoganda. I'd always found this hard to wrap my head around, because the Hitler I picture is a fascist and murderer. However, I'd never really considered that when he was elected, many of the people of Germany saw him as a charismatic leader. He promised to "make Germany strong again" while instilling a sense of "Volk," or people's, community in the nation.The entire basis of his appeal was creating an ideology within the people that made it acceptable to pin yellow stars of identification on Jews, and make the "Volk" believe that by taking people of difference to concentration camps, the Third Reich was protecting them from "threats." I have no desire to make any sweeping political claims or demonize any specific people; however, I'm sure you can't help but feel as if you've heard that type of language and some of those ideas used by American politicians before, not in the distant past, but within the last year. In myself, as I wandered through the Topography of Terror, seeing those similarities caused my mind to race, my stomach to drop, and my heart to sink. 

    -Bells destroyed during WWII air raids at Marienkirche-

Beyond learning more about how WWII came to be, we were able to see some of the lasting destruction ourselves. In Lübeck, Germany we visited Marienkirche, one of the many churches in Germany to have been destroyed during WWII. While the church has since been rebuilt and restored to a striking beauty, a monument to its past remains in the form of two bells. They sit sunken into the ground at the back of the church, just as they had been after the church had been demolished by a bomb. When seeing some of the damage of the war first hand, it began to feel more real to me. Being a continent away and so many decades removed from WWII and its devastation, it's  hard to imagine that that kind of destruction could have ever happened beyond the confines of a Hollywood set, even though it still happens daily in distant cities I have never seen. Yet Marienkirche was just the preview to our encounters with destruction. In Hamburg, St. Nicholas church has been reduced to ruins aside from its sykscrapjng tower and a few columned walls. The decision was made to not restore St. Nicholas in order for it to be a memorial of the war. However, one new addition to St. Nicholas is the museum that is situated beneath the foundation of the old church. There, I was offered a perspective to WWII that I had never encountered, that of the German citizens. While I've read personal accounts of Jewish people who were targeted during the war, I'd never read those of Germans who would have been considered part of the Volkcommunity. It's easy to forget that in a war it is not the Adolf Hitlers, and Heinrich Himmlers of our adversaries who are affected by bombings most often; it is the civilians. Of all the new things I have learned regarding WWII, or any war, from my time in Germany, it is to remember the plight of every person who is affected by war, and that war is rarely a solution, but a reaction. 

    - A portion of the East Side Gallery at the Berlin Wall -

When I started writing this post, I had intended to touch on how much less I knew about the effects of Berlin Wall than I thought I did, but I can only write about devastating things for so many paragraphs. Plus, I'd hate for any of you to think that this has been a completely depressing adventure. There are certainly harrowing moments, but there are ten times as many joyous and wonderful things that we've experienced. One of which for me was the East Side Gallery at the Berlin Wall. It's the longest stretch of the wall that remains, and it's covered in murals for its entire 1.3 kilometer span. To me, the murals act as a way of reclaiming the wall, making it something new that not only challenges the ideals of the past, but offers hope for a brighter future where we have learned from our mistakes. Aside from just figurative paintings, there are many quotes on the wall too, and the one pictured above was by far my favorite because it can be read two ways. On one hand, it suggests that the Berlin Wall, the action of small people in a small place, has tragically altered the face of the world. Yet on the other hand, the hand I prefer and extend to you, it can be read as a message of hope. We may all be small people, in many spread out small places, but even the smallest of our actions can change the face of the world and alter it, in a way that is good. 

"I'm just starting to get this Dutch thing down!"

Emma had it right when she exclaimed that she was just getting used to Dutch, right before we head off to Germany tomorrow. Thankfully the languages are similar, but overall I think that comment really signals that each of us is starting to gather our bearings in the Netherlands a bit more. I can successfully navigate central Amsterdam on foot, have a semi-decent grasp on public transport, and am starting to get common Dutch phrases down and pick up on words as I see them repeatedly. My favorite word so far? Aardbei, which is Dutch for strawberry and literally translates to "earth berry."

However, those are just some of the accomplishments we've made, and we've started to pick up on some other cultural practices as well, for instance, knowing how to stay out of the way of bicyclists by hearing the soft whir of the wheels and anticipating which direction they will be coming from. In the case that one of us still slips up in that scenario, we've gotten pretty good at darting out of the way, too. 

   -A row of homes in Krewerd, NL-

Another part of Dutch culture we have become aware of is how truly kind and polite the people are. Today, we traveled beyond the tall canal houses and grand museums of Amsterdam into the country to two villages: Oosthuisen and Krewerd. Our destination in both towns were local churches, Grotekerk and Mariakerk respectively. At Grotekerk we were greeted by Peter who quickly offered us tea or coffee to warm our bones in the massive unheated church which is adorned with gilded panels on the walls and houses one of the oldest organs in all of Europe. Despite my shivering, Peter's welcoming attitude instantly made it easy to become engrossed in the beauty and history of the church. He even suggested where I should stand to get the best photos of the organ; this happened to be the pulpit. In the organ loft, he also told me to stand on a bench to the best photo of the church from above, so you can thank Peter for several of the images below. While in the organ loft, we also had the opportunity to hear the Grotekerk organ at work and some wonderful playing by Dr. Tegels. I, on the other hand, played a bit of a Coldplay song, and I'm certain that somewhere out there the organ maker rolled over in his grave, but it was fun nonetheless. 

   - View from the organ loft at Grotekerk-

   -Ornamentation on the Grotekerk organ-

   -Grotekerk organ as seen from the pulpit. Dank u wel, Peter!-

   -Detail of the Grotekerk organ-

We were similarly greeted in Krewerd while visiting Mariakerk, and the caretaker of the church followed us on bike from her home to unlock everything. Comparatively, Mariakerk is much smaller than Grotekerk, but just as charming. Here, decorations from Christmas were still up due to an icestorm in postponing their take down. After exploring the church and hearing more organ music, we returned the keys to the caretaker's home where she offered us free postcards after our visit. One thing that Dr.Tegels has taught us is that after a visit in, in the Netherlands it is imperative that we shake hands with those who have helped us and thank them, which isn't hard to remember or difficult to want to do in light of the overwhelming generosity of everyone we have met so far. 

What is difficult, is to share everything we have been experiencing daily without rambling too much or running out of time to sleep. However, to sum everything up, the Netherlands has been wonderful to us so far, complete with delicious food and kind, patient, people. While I wish we could stay longer, it's time to head to Germany where new adventures and other magnificent organs to taint with Coldplay await. 

   -Emma, Tessa, and Kennedy at Grotekerk, featuring creepy/cool skull sculpture-

   -Grotekerk exterior-

   -Panels at Grotekerk that commemorate the death of the one time Lord of the village and his family members. 

   -Mariakerk interior- 

   -Christmas tree and windows at Mariakerk-

A Few Things We've Learned in Amsterdam

1.) Bikes are everywhere. 
Watch your step, and watch it very carefully, because chances are you will be run over if you happen to step into one of the bike lanes in Amsterdam. Not only are there hundreds, if not thousands, of bikes in the city, but they travel very quickly. Everyone from children to the elderly can be seen zipping around on their bikes: up alleyways, across intersections, and over canals. While on a canal tour around the city, we passed a bike garage in the harbor that was packed to the brim, and on every street there are bicycles piled against buildings, even those that clearly say "forbidden: no bikes here." In Amsterdam, bikes are unstoppable.

2.) Amsterdam cares about sustainability; airlines do not.

It may not come as a surprise after hearing that so many of Amsterdam's citizens travel by bike, but the city seems to give a lot of thought to the environment, which came as welcome relief after our 10 hour flight here. On the plane, I was shocked to see how much plastic was used by the airline. Over the course of our flight, there were no fewer than three drink services, plus two opportunities to have complimentary bottled water on top of that, and three meal or snack services that all required a hefty amount of plastic packaging. Multiply that by the 293 people on our flight, our one flight across the Atlantic had the potential to use 879 small plastic cups, 586 disposable water bottles, and countless packaging materials. In contrast, there have been many energy and resource saving practices to be seen around Amsterdam. From the airport we took the bus to our hotel, and from there we have either walked or taken public transit to get around the city, but sustainability isn't limited to transportation in Amsterdam. On our first day, a very dehydrated version of myself was overjoyed to find a water bottle refill station on our way to Nieuwkerk. Then today at the Van Gogh museum, I saw what was possibly the coolest contraption I have ever seen: reusable paper towels in a bathroom! You pull part of the towel loop out of the dispenser, then after drying your hands, the machine wheels the towel back into itself were it will dry and sanitize everything for the next person's use. Later when we visited the supermarket, plastic bags weren't the go-to method of grocery transportation, and if you wanted one, you'd have to pay for it. Overall, everything in Amsterdam has seemed somewhat similar to back home, but just a little different, and in the case of sustainability, those small differences have seemed to speak volumes. 

3.) Everything here is beautiful. 

Thus far, we have visited the Oudekerk, Nieuwkerk, Ons Lieve Heer op Solder, Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum, and various locations in Amsterdam both on foot and by canal. We have traveled time and visited everyone Constantine to Rembrandt along the way, and one thing is certain regardless of where we are in time and space: everything is beautiful. In the U.S, you can't replicate the cobbled and cozy feel that accompanies truly old cities. The climbing ivy on the closely nestled homes that stretch into the sky is just as mesmerizing as the grandeur and seemingly endless hallways of the Rijksmuseum and terrifically tall groin vaults of the churches we have visited. Even the smallest church we visited had its own charms. Unlike Oudekerk or Nieuwkerk, Ons Lieve Heer op Solder, which translates to "Our Lord in the Attic," is housed... well, inside of a house. While the home appears to be a typical steep-stepped Dutch home at first glance, walk up a few flights of stairs and you will find a Catholic Church tucked away inside: gilded altarpieces and detailed painting in all. Beauty is hiding everywhere in this city. 

4.) The Dutch have a sense of humor about their painting masters. 

While I'm getting tired and should rest before we head to the Anne Frank house tomorrow morning, j wanted to share one last thing with you all. If you are familiar with Van Gogh's famous painting "The Potato Eaters" you will know it is painted in varying shades of ruddy brown, depicting a peasant family in their dimly lit home. If you are familiar with the Van Gogh Museum, you will know they have this cheeky item available in the gift shop:

That's all for now, but I'll try to write again soon amidst our busy schedule. Dank je wel for reading!

3, 2, 1... Takeoff

"The idea of waiting for something makes it more exciting." - Andy Warhol

After several meetings, a couple semi-stressful flight changes, and countless anxious glances at our numerous countdown apps, they're finally here: the final three days before we take off for Amsterdam. There's something about reaching the three-day mark of any long wait that makes it all seem real, like it's actually going to happen rather than being some far off if-everything-goes-well possibility. Maybe something in our psyche or biology kicks off at the 72 hour mark (probably not), but even if that were the case, as an English and art major I couldn't tell you anything about it. 

Since I'm already bringing up details like my studies, I might as well introduce myself. I'm Sara, a current junior at Pacific Lutheran University in Tacoma, Washington, and I'll be traveling to the Netherlands and Germany this J-Term with three other students: Emma, Kennedy and Tessa, as well as our wonderful professor and native Netherlander, Dr. Paul Tegels. While there, we will see numerous cities in both the Netherlands and Germany, visit churches and museums focusing on organs and art, have the opportunity to experience a homestay in the Netherlands, and even fend for ourselves for a few days in an apartment in Germany. Of course, that's only the short list. If you'd like to see our whole itinerary, you're in luck! It's at the bottom of this post.

While our program only last two weeks, it's packed tighter than my carry-on will be, and I know it will be an experience that -warning: incoming cliché- will stay me and my peers for a lifetime. As typical as that sounds, I know it will be true. This will be my first time visiting Europe, and too many exited thoughts are rushing through my mind to say anything else coherent. So, until January 7th, I'll just have to revel in the excitement of anticipation and keep up my mantra of "3 days, 2 days,1 day..." until I can finally say it: takeoff. 
______________________________________________________

J-Term in the Netherlands and Germany Itinerary (2016):

Thursday January 7:
Depart form SeaTac Airport to Amsterdam

Friday January 8:
8:15am - arrive in Amsterdam; Visit Nieuwe Kerk*, Ons Lieve Heer op Solder and Oude Kerk
*Kerk is Dutch for "Church," so you'll be seeing that a lot.

Saturday January 9: 
Visit the Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum

Sunday January 10: 
Visit Anne Frank House
2:15pm: Concert at the Concertgebouw the Concertgebouw Orchestra
(Possibly a canal tour this day, too!)

Monday January 11:
Visit to Grote Kerk, Oosthuizen, Gothic organ, artwork in church
Visit to Mariakerk, in Krewerd, NLD
Overnight in the fortress* of Bourtange, NLD

*You read that correctly; we're staying in a fortress (pictured above).

Tuesday January 12:
Visit Grote Kerk Noordbroek
Cross into Germany, continue to Lüdingworth, visit Andreaskirche
Drive to Hamburg, (with stop in Stade)
Check into apartment in Hamburg

Wednesday January 13:
Travel to Lübeck, GER, visit Marienkirche, Holsten Gate, and St. Anne’s Museum Quarter

Thursday January 14:
Travel to Lüneburg, GER, visit Johanneskirche, old downtown, visit to a museum of choice: 
(Brewery museum, Salt museum, Art museum with different exhibitions)

Friday January 15:
Travel to Berlin, GER

Saturday January 16:
Day in Hamburg; Rathaus (town hall), Hamburger Kunsthalle (art museum)

Sunday January 17:
Drive to Zutphen, NLD
Homestay in Zutphen

Monday January 18:
Visit old town of Zutphen, Walburgkerk
Visit the town of Nijmegen, NLD, (Stevenskerk, Museum Het Valkhof)
Return to Zutphen for homestay

Tuesday January 19: 
Drive to Haarlem, NLD, visit Bavokerk and Frans Hals Museum

Wednesday January 20: 
Free day (visit Amsterdam, Utrecht (mechanical instrument museum); The Hague (Mauritshuis, Vredespaleis (Peace Palace), or other places?

Thursday January 21:
Depart from Amsterdam Airport to Seattle